Interrogation and Torture

The first building we visited in the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is the southernmost building called Building A. Right outside the building, the first thing we saw was the courtyard that was turned into a small gravesite. There were 14 tombs there for the victims whose bodies were found in Building A when the prison was discovered.

The former high school was converted by the Khmer Rouge into an interrogation center and prison in 1975, but it was kept a secret to the outside world, and it was not discovered until 1979 when the Vietnamese Army came to liberate the city of Phnom Penh. The classrooms in Building A were converted into interrogation and torture rooms. The rooms were emptied out, and in place there was a metal bed frame with car batteries, and some metal instruments used for torture in each of the room. When the Vietnamese Army first discovered the prison, in the rooms they also found the bodies of the victims. You could see the grisly black and white photo of what the room was like when it was first discovered on the wall of each room. Thankfully the photo prints were old and not crisp, but enough to give the visitors idea of how horrific it was finding out about the atrocities done in this place. I think the image of the interrogation room with its checkered floor tiles, metal frame and torture instruments in the middle of the room, and the black and white photograph on the wall would be one I always remember and it’s the first one that comes to my mind when I hear the name Tuol Sleng mentioned.

Right outside building A, there was a wooden bar that was used for physical education exercise back when this was a school. The Khmer Rouge turned it into another instrument of torture; it was used as a gallows. A person would be tied on a rope and hung upside down on this gallows, and told to confess until he/she lost consciousness from being upside down. Then the person's head would be lowered down into a big jar filled with dirty water and fertilizer so the prisoner would regain consciousness and the interrogation would continue. As I read the description of this torture and interrogation process, I couldn’t help thinking how human creativity could be used for evil. We often celebrate the human ingenuity and creativity to accomplish something using little resources or repurposing an instrument for other use. Here’s an example of doing so for the worst possible reasons.

I took the photo below as I walked through the Building A of Tuol Sleng. It’s interesting that from photography standpoint, these classrooms turned torture chambers with bedframes and torture equipment in the middle of the rooms were nicely lighted with sunlight through their windows, so you could take great photographs of them. I just can't imagine what it’s like to be the Vietnamese photographer who came here, saw the scenes, and took the photographs that were shown on the wall. Often time photographers say that their style is ‘photojournalistic’ as they take the photos that record the moments as they happen. Well, this takes ‘photojournalism’ to a different level…

Interrogation and torture room

Tuol Sleng

The Tuol Sleng / S-21 Prison is an old high school building turned prison right in the heart of Phnom Penh, Cambodia that now serves as a museum to remember the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge regime. In this prison, more than 20,000 people were imprisoned, and only seven prisoners survived the four years of horror at the prison.

We went to Tuol Sleng after finishing our visit to the National Museum of Cambodia. When we arrived at there, my first impression of the place was that it’s somewhat different than what I had thought in my mind. While I knew that Tuol Sleng was located in Phnom Penh, I didn’t realize that the complex was right in the middle of a dense residential area. You could see people’s homes right across the street and surrounding the complex.

The building itself looked old and run down, but eerily it looked somewhat familiar to me. The building was a high school before the Khmer Rouge regime converted it into an interrogation center and prison. As such, the three-story high school buildings with their classrooms looked very similar to my junior high and high school buildings back in Indonesia. I think my school buildings were built around the same era as when the Tuol Sleng buildings were built, so it makes sense that they look kind of similar.

One part that gave a visitor a clue that this was not just an ordinary building was the fence around the complex. The fence was covered with corrugated metal sheets and barbed wires — looking more like prison than high school.

I took the photo below from the third floor of one of Tuol Sleng’s buildings. You can see the courtyard, and the surrounding dense residential neighborhood. I can’t imagine what it’s like to live in a neighborhood close to a place where thousands of people were tortured and killed.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Culture Almost Lost

Sometimes you take for granted the value of something until you realize that it was once almost lost, and that you’re fortunate to still be able to experience/see it. Such was my feeling after visiting the National Museum of Cambodia in Phnom Penh. The museum houses collection of artifacts from the rich Khmer history. Many of these were almost lost during the Khmer Rouge reign, as the regime attempted to erase the culture and history and ‘start over’ in the agrarian society that they envisioned.

I made some observations as I walked around viewing the exhibits. There were some groups of school students in uniform listening to young tour guides explaining the exhibit to them in Khmer. I think that was nice to see the young generation of the locals also coming to the museum to learn about their own culture and history, considering that most of them were not even born at time of the Khmer Rouge reign (more than 80% of Cambodian population was under the age of 30 in 2010).

There was also an exhibit explaining about an archaeological site in rural Cambodia where they found many artifacts from the golden age of the Khmer Empire. It’s interesting to read the story how the site was initially discovered. A farmer found some of the metal artifacts, and initially collected and sold them in the market as scrap metal. It turned out that the site was one of the richest archaeological sites ever excavated in Southeast Asia. One of the purposes of this exhibit was to educate people about the importance of these archaeological finds in learning about the history, and how it’s a loss for the society when the treasures fell into the hands of looters and art dealers. I think that would be a difficult concept to get people to adopt, especially when many people lived in poor condition and the short-term gain from selling those artifacts was more appealing than the long-term gain for the society from turning over the findings to the archaeological research groups.

As I walked through another section of the museum, I overheard a tour guide explaining some artifacts to a couple of foreign visitors in French. What’s interesting to observe was that the lady who guided the tour seemed to be a Cambodian in her 50s. That means she’s old enough to have gone through the Khmer Rouge era. Given her knowledge about the art history, I wonder if she was an educated person who fled the country before the Khmer Rouge era or if she was a survivor who lived through the Khmer Rouge time and managed to avoid being identified as educated and killed by the regime. Either way, I thought that was great to have someone from the previous generation who can help link the culture to where it was before the dark times.

So there it was, a brief visit to a museum that holds a nation’s treasure. It may not be as well known as what you find in other history museums in the world, but when you consider what this nation had gone through, this is definitely a collection that should be appreciated. I hope as the country becomes more developed and more of the Cambodian people become more educated and come out of poverty, these national treasures become more known and they can appreciate the richness of their own culture and history.

The photo below was taken at the front of the museum, as we wrapped up our visit to this museum. Notice the group of young people walking out in white shirts. Those were the students that I mentioned above.

Students at the National Museum

National Museum of Cambodia

The National Museum of Cambodia in Phnom Penh housed a large collection of art work from the Khmer culture, dated back to the periods even before the Khmer Empire. This museum was opened in 1917, but during the Khmer Rouge era (1975-1979) it was abandoned. The museum building was left in disrepair, the roof rotten, and it became home to a vast colony of bats. In 1979, it was repaired and reopened to the public. As we visited the museum more than 30 years later, the museum was already back as an important place to learn about the Khmer art history.

As we entered the museum, the ambience inside the museum reminded me to the National Museum of Indonesia in Jakarta that I visited years ago. The museum building itself was an old building (93 years old, as compared to the Indonesian one that’s almost 150 years old), and it was also started by the colonial government that occupied the land when the museum was founded (the National Museum in Cambodia was founded by the French, while the National Museum in Indonesia was founded by the Dutch). The collections of art work were also similar that they represent the history going back to hundreds of years ago.

I think to really get an appreciation of the importance of the artifacts we’re seeing at this museum, we would need a guide and / or good understanding of the historical context of the culture and time where the artifacts came from. We were on our own and we only had short time to visit this museum, so unfortunately our tour at the museum was very cursory.

The photo below was taken at the courtyard inside the Museum. It’s nicely set up and felt very nice and peaceful to be there.

National Museum of Cambodia

King Father Norodom Sihanouk

I wrote a post last month about the Thai King. Cambodia is also a Kingdom, and it has a King as well. The King’s role is mostly ceremonial, but similar to the Thai people, the Cambodians also revere their King. Their current King is King Norodom Sihamoni, who became King in 2004 replacing his father King Father Norodom Sihanouk who abdicated his Throne due to health reasons. If King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand is the longest reigning monarch in the world, King Father Norodom Sihanouk held the world record for the number of positions that he held during his lifetime. The Guinness Book of World Records identifies him as the politician who has served the world’s greatest variety of political offices. These included two terms as King, two as Sovereign Prince, one as president, two as prime minister, and one as Cambodia’s non-titled head of state, as well as numerous positions as leader of various governments-in-exile.

When Kristi and I visited the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh, we saw an exhibit at the museum dedicated to the life of the King Father Norodom Sihanouk. He was born in 1922 (so he’s 90 years old this year) and first became King in 1941. At the exhibit, there was a photo of him with the first Indonesian President, Soekarno, not long after Indonesia gained its independence. That’s how long he’s been around. People in Cambodia revered him, as evident to him being restored to his position as the King of Cambodia in 1993 after years of being in exile during the Khmer Rouge era.

The photo below was taken when we visited the Banteay Srei temple near Siem Reap. It was the photos of the current King Norodom Sihamoni on the left, the King Father Norodom Sihanouk in the middle, and Queen Monique on the right.

Cambodian Royal Family