Cast of Characters

Sometimes when you go on a trip as part of a group tour, what makes the trip interesting and memorable is not only the actual places you visit, but the people in the tour group that you share the experience with. Prior to our trip to Ha Long Bay, I had never really gone on a cruise, so I didn’t quite know what to expect nor did I think much about the experience. My concern in the beginning was about the transit so we could join the group at the right place and time, so once that was accomplished, then it was like a reset happening (now what?), and at that point I just decided to enjoy the ride and let the experience unfold.

We knew that the first part of the trip to Ha Long Bay was to get to Ha Long City from Hanoi. What I didn’t anticipate was that out of the total of four hours it took us to get to the Ha Long City port, the first hour was actually spent in Hanoi going around to pick up other members of the tour group. We had several groups of people going on the same cruise, so some of the groups were picked up by the same minivan to be taken to Ha Long City. A couple other groups decided to meet the tour group in Ha Long City itself.

When Kristi and I were picked up at 6 on Sixteen Hotel in Old Quarter Hanoi, there were already four other people plus the driver and the tour company staff in the van. Quickly Kristi and I recognized that these four people were either from Malaysia or Singapore, as they spoke a mix of Malay, English, and Chinese with each other (later on I learned that they were two couples who were originally from Malaysia, but they lived in Sydney, Australia). We didn’t say anything to these folks, and decided to just sit quietly and enjoy the ride.

The next stop was at a busy street still in Old Quarter Hanoi, across the street from a narrow alley. Out come two young ladies in their early 20s. They looked like backpackers. Later I learned that they were from Canberra, Australia, and they were in the beginning of a several-week-long backpacking journey in Southeast Asia. Both were just finished their college years, so this seemed to be one of those ‘gap year’ trips that people took after finishing a stage in life and before moving on the next stage.

The last stop in Hanoi was at a fancy hotel in the French Quarter area. The last group being picked up was two travelers in their 40s. We learned later that they were brother and sister from the US. Both were very accomplished professors at universities in the US, and they were towards the end part of a few week tour of Vietnam.

After picking up that last group, the tour staff lady that seemed to be responsible to get all of the passengers rounded up was dropped at a location so she could go back to her office. The tour group went with the driver to continue the drive out of Hanoi towards Ha Long City.

In the middle of the ride to Ha Long City, we stopped once at a place that seemed to double as rest area and souvenir shop. Very strategic I suppose, let the tourists stretch, get some refreshments, and potentially purchase some souvenirs. During the ride and even at this stop, it seemed that each group in our van pretty much interacted within itself and not necessary mingled with the other groups.

When we arrived in Ha Long City, we were welcomed by another tour staff who instructed us to carry our luggage and follow him to a big dining hall where we were to meet the rest of our tour group and getting a little welcome message and orientation from our tour guide.

There were two other groups that we met there. One group was a family of six, an older Vietnamese lady who was the matriarch of the group, her son, and her two daughters, each accompanied by their husbands. All of the lady’s children and in-laws were in their late 20s or early 30s. The two in-laws were caucasians. The family actually lived in Idaho, USA, and they were coming to Vietnam to visit their mom’s homeland. One of the daughters and her husband were actually in the middle of a round the world trip, and they decided to meet up with the family there in Vietnam.

The last group was a couple from the Netherlands who at that time actually lived in Rwanda. They were in the middle of an independent tour in Southeast Asia.

The last person we met was our tour guide. His name was Hoang, but he said everyone called him ‘Smiley’ as he smiles a lot. Very lively personally — fit to be a tour guide especially for a cruise that would go on for almost three days. Smiley welcomed us to our trip, and provided us with some logistical information as well as asking everyone to introduced themselves and let the group know where each person/group came from. That help loosen up and get the group interacting a little bit, though each group largely still kept the conversation within itself.

We were then ready to start our cruise, and the first part was to board a tender with our luggage, and headed towards the junk boat that would be our home for the next couple of days. Below is a photo that I took while we were on the tender after leaving the pier.

Cruise passengers

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is a bay in northeast Vietnam. Located about 170 km east of Hanoi, it is famous for the thousands of limestone karsts and islands in various sizes and shapes. The name Ha Long means the ‘descending dragon’ as the lines of the rock formations and islands looked like the back of a dragon and according to the local legend, the gods sent dragons to help protect the Vietnamese during the formation of their country, and after the battle, the dragons decided to live peacefully and settled in the bay.

Today Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a popular tourist destination in Northern Vietnam. To visit Ha Long Bay, you would need to travel to the port in Ha Long City, and then get on one of the many junk boats that offer tours of the bay. The quality of the experience vary widely depending on how much you’re willing to pay, how long your trip, and which company you use. You can be on one of the boats where they just packed as many visitors as they can, or you can get the whole boat for yourself. While cruising in Ha Long Bay, popular activities include swimming, kayaking, visiting caves, and visiting floating villages.

When we were planning our trip to Vietnam, a visit to Ha Long Bay was definitely one that we did not want to miss. After reading about some horror stories that people experienced when they tried to ‘play it by ear’ and just select the junk boat to take when they got to Ha Long City, we decided to go on a safer route and try to find reputable tour company to arrange our trip. We also had limited amount of time, so we didn’t want to risk spending too much time trying to arrange our overland trip from Hanoi to Ha Long City prior to visiting the Bay. Fortunately many tour companies arrange trips that are all inclusive the transportation to and from Hanoi.

The tour company we booked the Ha Long Bay trip with was Buffalo Tours. It is a local Vietnamese tour company that was internationally known, and they had organized trips even for someone like Travel Channel’s Andrew Zimmern during his visit to Vietnam. While I was confident it’s a good choice from reputation standpoint, in the beginning I wasn’t sure if this would work out as I didn’t know whether the trip cost would fit within our budget. I checked with them via email, and found out that the price was quite reasonable (about USD250 per person for 3 day, 2 nights all-inclusive cruise). It turned out that Buffalo Tours in turn had a company called Indochina Junk that operated several junk boats (you can look them up with their boat names, either the Red Dragon or the Dragon’s Pearl) actually provided the service for the cruise.

On the photo below you could see one of the Dragon’s Pearl boats moored at a lagoon in Ha Long Bay. We passed this boat during the first day of our cruise. Ours was almost identical to this.

Dragon's Pearl

Early Morning Transit

We arrived back in Hanoi after the overnight train ride from Lao Cai at around 5 am. This was when another experience of dealing with the local customs/culture, experiencing the kindness of others, and overall being out of the comfort zone started.

After getting off from the train, we followed other passengers towards the exit from the station. There it seemed to be a little chaotic; it wasn’t clear where we should be going. I suppose this was normal at the Hanoi station; we didn’t experience this on the way out a couple of days before since we had someone arranging our departure. On the return, we’re pretty much on our own.

There were some taxis lining up inside the station’s parking area, but there wasn’t any clear sign to indicate if those are the official taxis to take (if such regulation existed). We decided to just continue walking outside the train station. There it was even more chaotic with people offering taxi service everywhere. I guess I was still half awake and not fully alert when I responded and followed one of the taxi drivers to his car, expecting it to be like what you expect in other countries — get in the car, tell the driver where to go, and then we would go with the taxi meter running. The driver loaded our luggage into the trunk, and we entered the back seat. I told him the address where we needed to go, expecting him to recognize it and start the meter. Instead, he told me a price for the ride that was clearly inflated. I wasn’t expecting to do negotiation at that moment, but even instinctively I said no and told him it’s too expensive. He did come down on the price, but at that moment I realized he got us captive since our luggage was already in his trunk. It was still a bit higher than I think the cost should be, but at that point we just wanted to get to our destination.

Our destination that morning was 6 on Sixteen, the new boutique hotel in Old Quarter Hanoi that was opened only a month before by the same proprietor as Sapa Rooms Hotel where we stayed in Sapa. We started our journey to Sapa at 6 on Sixteen, and we needed a pick up address for the tour company that would take us for the next leg of our journey, so we gave them the address of 6 on Sixteen. The problem was that our pick up time was not until around 8 am, and it was still 5 am. So we needed a place to wait for a couple hours in between.

Before leaving Sapa, I asked the folks at Sapa Rooms if it was okay to come to 6 on Sixteen in the morning as technically we’ve already checked out from Sapa Rooms by then and since we’re not planning on staying at 6 on Sixteen afterwards, they were not obligated to deal with us at that point. The Sapa Rooms manager said it’s okay and he would let the staff at 6 on Sixteen know about our arrival.

When we arrived at 6 on Sixteen, the place was still closed, and the area was practically deserted. The only people we saw on the street were traders who were on their way to the market in early morning, or some drunk foreigners who were on their way back after a night of partying. I was a bit skeptical whether the folks from Sapa did notify their counterpart in Hanoi about us. But we didn’t want to stay out on the street with our luggage, so I rang the entrance door bell to the hotel. After waiting for few minutes, a half sleepy gentleman came out. I told him about our story. I’m not sure if he did get all that I told him, but he nodded his head when he heard Sapa Rooms. He let us come into the restaurant/lounge area of the hotel, which was still not set up for business yet. As we sat down, he asked us if we wanted any drink, and he gave us the drink menu from the restaurant. We asked for a cup of coffee and a fruit juice drink. He nodded and went to the kitchen and made us the drinks.

We sat there and waited until a couple of hours later when our ride came and picked us up. During that wait, we saw the area came to life as the day broke, and more hotel staff came in to start the day. One lady later on asked us if we wanted to order some breakfast. I looked at the menu, and it said the restaurant opened at 6 am. It turned out the gentleman who opened the door for us earlier was one of the hotel staff whose job was to guard the door, not necessarily to serve at the restaurant (especially when it was after hours). So we actually experienced some kindness from a stranger and an above and beyond service.

We ordered breakfast, and around 8 am, a minivan showed up and a lady came in and announced my name. There was our ride for the next part of our journey, and I felt relieved that the transition worked out. That morning we had yet another negative experience dealing with taxi in Hanoi. The hospitality of the hotel staff that morning, however, offset the negative part of the morning and was one that I would always remember and it’s reason for recommending the establishment both in Hanoi and Sapa to others coming to visit the area.

The photo below was taken as we waited in the hotel for our ride. Here was Kristi killing time with her Blackberry (there was wi-fi at the hotel as well, so we could connect).

Transit in Hanoi

Cabin Sharing

When it came time to board the train for our journey back to Hanoi, we walked on the dimly lit platform at the Lao Cai train station to find the train car that we’re supposed to be on. Fortunately there was only one train in the station that was about ready to leave, so there was no mistake of getting on the wrong one.

After finding our train car and cabin, Kristi and I started to settle inside our cabin for the overnight journey. The layout of the cabin was similar to the one we occupied on the way to Lao Cai a couple of days earlier, a small cabin with four bunk beds that were designed more for Asian-sized passengers (less than 6-ft tall). We only purchased two seats, so we would be sharing the cabin with two more people. When we got to our cabin, there was noone else there yet, so in my mind I was hoping that may be we got lucky that the other two seats were not occupied for this trip (like on air flights, sometimes the middle seat next to you might not be occupied so you could stretch a little bit). But no such luck as few minutes later a couple of gentlemen in their 50s came into the cabin to take the remaining two bunk beds.

After getting their luggage stowed under the bunk beds, one of the gentlemen said hi and introduced themselves to us. His name was Eyal, and the other gentleman was Avi. They were from Tel Aviv, Israel, and they were business partners who were in the middle of a three-week trip in Southeast Asia, visiting Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. They were still in the beginning part of their trip — Sapa was the first destination in their itinerary to visit. They said they did many treks to the villages like what we did, and they also did whitewater rafting. I didn’t know that there was an option to do that activity in Sapa area.

From Sapa, Avi and Eyal were going back to Hanoi and after spending a day there, they would continue down to Central and South Vietnam before continuing on to Siem Reap in Cambodia and ending their trip with some time at the beach in Phuket, Thailand. So it sounded like they had quite a packed itinerary for their trip. I asked if they’re traveling independently. Eyal said it was sort of independent, as they were not part of any bigger group, but all of their travel arrangements were done by their travel agent.

We had many hours to spend in the train on the way to Hanoi. So the conversation continued with us sharing our travel experience so far, which drew their interests as we had gone to Thailand and Cambodia before coming to Vietnam. Eyal said that he’s been to Thailand before, but not to Cambodia yet.

They also shared about their family. Eyal had a family with three daughters back home. He showed us the photos of his daughters. This trip was meant to be a ‘scouting’ trip to check out the places before possibly coming back again to visit with his wife and daughters. He wanted to make sure he knew the places and activities that they would enjoy. Avi said he had two grown children, and his wife didn’t really like traveling, so that’s why he went with his friend for the trip.

After chatting for some time, it’s time to get some rest and we each occupied our little bunk bed to try sleeping for several hours before reaching Hanoi. This time I was able to get more sleep time than during the trip from Hanoi to Lao Cai, probably because I was already tired after doing the trek during the day. Few hours later we were woken up by some noises and feeling the train slowing down. Apparently it stopped a couple of times at stations near Hanoi. So we knew it’s getting closer. Avi was up before everyone else, and when I got up and saw him already sitting and reading a book, he smiled and offered me a breathmint as he took one himself; that was a good way to freshen up after the rough sleep in a moving train.

Once we arrived in Hanoi, we bid each other goodbye, and we continued on our trip with the next segment of our journey.

I took the photo below from the hallway outside our cabin just before the train started to move. Avi and Eyal were on the left, and Kristi was on the right. You can see the small size of the cabin that we occupied. We didn’t get to occupy the whole cabin for ourselves, but instead we had good conversation with travelers from other part of the world.

Avi and Eyal

Journey Back

After spending the afternoon relaxing at the Sapa Rooms Hotel, it’s time for us to leave Sapa for the journey back to Hanoi. Similar to the travel coming to Sapa, we had the transportation arranged through the hotel. For someone who is used to plan everything in advance myself, it was a bit uncomfortable not knowing what the next thing that’s going to happen in this trip.

I asked Andrew and Cathy, the other Sapa Rooms guests who are also traveling back to Hanoi about how this would work, and they were not sure either. So we asked the hotel’s front desk person about this, and he told us not to worry and just be ready to leave by around 5 pm. A minivan that would take us to Lao Cai would show up, and once we get to Lao Cai, we would be dropped off at a place where we could collect our train tickets. I was so used to having everything planned out in advance, knowing the point of contact in the event of emergency, etc. — not just going with the flow. So even this explanation was not completely making me feel comfortable about the trip. At least knowing that at least there are other people in the same position made me feel a little comfortable.

Around 5 pm, sure enough, a Ford Transit minivan showed up outside the hotel. By then I had just finished settling the hotel bills, and the hotel manager told us that our ride to Lao Cai was ready to take us there. So we loaded up the van and got ready to leave. In addition to Andrew, Cathy, Kristi, and me, there was a family of four tourists that also went with us. The rest of the van were locals who were on the way to Lao Cai. We recognized one of the passengers; it was May our tour guide from the day before. She recognized us as well and said hi. I remembered she mentioned that her daughter stayed with her in-laws in Lao Cai during the week, so she was going to Lao Cai to see her daughter.

It didn’t take long to load the minivan and off we went. The trip was like the reverse of the ride coming in. We came in the morning when it was still dark when we left Lao Cai but then we saw the sun rising on the way to Sapa. For the trip to Lao Cai, we left when it was still light outside, but the sun set on the way there and by the time we arrived in Lao Cai, it was already dark.

The minivan dropped the local passengers including May along the way as we entered Lao Cai. The last stop was at a restaurant located right across the street from the train station. Apparently this was the drop off place for us, and someone from the restaurant had the train tickets for us. We got the tickets, and not long after, we were told to head to the train station with our tickets, get inside the station, and find the train car and cabin as marked on the ticket. Andrew and Cathy were assigned to different train car than ours, so we said goodbye to each other on the way in, and that was the last time we saw them.

The photo below was taken at the restaurant where we were dropped off by the minivan in Lao Cai. It wasn’t a bad idea for the Sapa Rooms folks to coordinate with this restaurant to help with the travelers’ logistics. This allow them to have someone helping in Lao Cai without having personnel going along from Sapa to Lao Cai. For the restaurant proprietor, I’m not sure if they got a cut from the train ticket purchase, but since we had to wait for few minutes before our time to head to the station, some other passengers ended up getting food to go from the restaurant to take during the train ride. For the passengers, the restaurant also had restrooms they could use before going aboard the train for the overnight journey.

Ticket pick up place